The suitcases: A story

Anyone who's ever been to my house knows I love old trunks and hard leather suitcases. You know, the kind you see in old movies. Currently I have 2 trunks and 10 suitcases of varying size. I'm not sure exactly what the lure of suitcases is, but I like to imagine where they've been and what adventures they might have seen.
When we lived in Heidelberg, there was a flea market held once or twice a month within walking distance of our house and we went as often as possible. To my joy there were always suitcases, but I didn't buy them unless they "spoke" to me (that's right, I'm the Suitcase Whisperer). One little old man, Joseph (mid-late 70's), usually had 1 or 2 great suitcases that I would snap up. He often priced them too low and I would pay him more, just because. Silly, I know to argue with a bargain, but I couldn't just walk away paying so little. It got to where he started calling me the Frau Koffer (Mrs. Suitcase) every time he saw me. One weekend there was a 2 day flea market and I went both days. The first day he had a small brown suitcase (12"x21"x6") that appealed to me. I bought it for €8 (he wanted €5). He told me to come back the next day, because he had something special for me.
The next day, I wandered over to see what he had, and he pulled 2 small suitcases from under his table (12"x21"x6" and 10"x17"x5") that I had to have the moment I saw them.  I had usually passed by all black suitcases, preferring brown, but there was something about these that made me want them.  He offered them to me for €10 together.  I told him that was too low and paid him €15, when he flat out refused to take the €20 I offered.  I took the suitcases to my car (we had errands to run later, so we drove) and went back to look around more.  When I passed by his little space again, he waved me over.   He said he had a story his wife (who was always there) said he had to "tells" me, but didn't want to tell me unless I bought the suitcases so it wouldn't seem like he was just trying to sell them.
He proceeded with his story and I simply couldn't believe I was understanding correctly as his English was broken, my German wasn't much better and there was loads of gesturing involved.  I had to know if I was hearing what I thought I was hearing and told him to wait a moment while I went to get a lady from another stall I was familiar with, and who I knew spoke both languages (don't worry, her husband was there to watch the stall so I wasn't taking her away from business).  She happily came (probably because I'd spent so much money over the months at her stall) and translated the story he told and the questions I asked.
The suitcases had belonged to his wife's parents.  His wife was Jewish.  She had not been born when World War II happened, but her parents were a young couple, married in the mid-1930's.  Her father was a tailor in a small town near Mannheim.  We all know how safe it was to be Jewish during the years leading up to and during the war.  In mid-1938, just a few months before Kristallnacht, her parents packed everything they could in those 2 suitcases and one other that he no longer had, and decided to flee to the Netherlands.  They then went on to Denmark and finally to Sweden where they stayed until the end of the war.  When they came back to Germany they found everything they owned had been confiscated by the Nazi party (and likely scavenging citizens) and the small tailor shop, with their apartment above, destroyed.   With the exception of what they had packed in those very small suitcases they had nothing.  With the help of the friends who returned, and Allied troops they rebuilt their lives, bought a small house outside of town (where Joseph and his wife live today) and the suitcases were  put in the attic and forgotten until they were pulled out a few months back and hauled to the flea market.  They were toted back and forth several times, before he decided they likely weren't going to sell.  Until he got to know me that is.
I asked him if he was certain he wanted to sell them, thinking surely someone in the family would want to keep them.  He said none of their children or grandchildren wanted them and he'd rather they be sold to someone who did, rather than toss them in the rubbish.
I thanked him for telling me their history and promised I would appreciate them and their brush with history. When I got home with my historical treasures  I pondered what I would pack if forced to flee my home with only a few small suitcases.  While there are wars raging across the world I feel confident knowing that there is an infinitesimally small chance that the choice this young couple made will ever be one I have to make and I'm grateful for it.  The suitcases now sit stacked with a few other in my home where they remind me every day to be thankful for what I have and the relative safety and security I enjoy.

Reims France-The War Rooms

Back in December, when my dad visited and we went on our 2 week whirlwind WWII trip, one of the places we visited was Reims, France. Tina, over at Pecan Corner has been blogging about WWII and asked me to post about our trip to the War Rooms.
Dwight Eisenhower had his HQ at Reims and it was here on May 7, 1945 at 2:41 am that Germany signed an unconditional surrender.  German General Alfred Jodl signed the document that effectively ended WWII.  Interestingly, Eisenhower was not in the room at the time of the signing.  When I asked my dad (who is basically a walking WWII history book) why, when he was the SHAEF (Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Forces) commander, he explained that because the Germans did not have a commander present who equaled Eisenhower in rank, it would have been considered a slap in the face to the Germans.   I personally think this is a little silly, but I know what sticklers the military is when it comes to protocol.  Still, I think it stinks that Eisenhower couldn't be there are the the moment.  The allies who signed the document were General Walter Smith (US), Ivan Susloparov (Soviets) and General Francois Sevez (France).  There were a total of 15 people around the table, including Generals, Colonels, and aides from England, the US, France, The Soviet Union and Germany and a host of others, there to witness, photograph and film this most important moment. The War Rooms have been preserved exactly as they were on that day and I'm so grateful to whomever made that decision, as it is an amazing and important piece of world history.  Here are some of our photos:

These are the keys to the War Room.

My dad explaining something to me.  Probably why Eisenhower wasn't at the signing.

Jodl signing the surrender.

This is the table where they signed.  Each chair has a plaque with the name of the person who sat in it.

 Photo of the signing.

This shows the number of captured enemy soldiers by the Allies.  I find it interesting that they used the swastika. 
 

The sheer number and size of maps in the room was impressive.  The maps went all the way around the room.

Mr. HH and my dad.

My dad, me and Indy on the opposite side of the room from the signing table.  Indy found all the maps fascinating.
 

BTW, it should be noted that Jodl was found guilty of war crimes at the Nuremberg trials and hanged in 1946.  The two men on either side of him at the signing were Wilhelm Oxenius, who died in prison in 1948 and Hans-Georg von Friedeberg, who committed suicide just a few weeks after the signing.

I hope you enjoyed a peek at this piece of history.  There was a lot more in the museum and if you ever make it to Reims, make sure to stop by.  I know the champagne caves will be calling your name, but this is well worth the time. 

Living History: the Battle of the Bulge 64 years later.

This isn't really a holidya post, but I hope you read it anyway. Yesterday we did one of the most awesome things I've ever done. We went to Bastogne, Belgium and participated in the anniversary walk. This walk commemorates the Ardennes Offensive and Battle of the Bulge, which took place from 16 Dec 1944-25 Jan 1945. Bastogne was surrounded by the Germans but held by the US 101st Airborne and Combat Command B of the 10th mountain division. I hope this isn't boring you. Stick with me. Once the background is out of the way I'll show you the cool pictures. So, Bastogne was completely cut off from supplies and they had little in the way of food, medical supplies or even ammunition. The towns people shared what little they had with their protectors, including white sheets to camoflauge their uniforms in the snow. The German commander, von Luttwitz sent a telegram to General McAuliff, who was the acting commander of the 101st demaning that the city surrender. McAuliff sent back a one word reply "NUTS!" The city held out until Patton and the 3rd ID could reach them with much needed assistance. The Germans were bombed from the sky by the air force and bombarded from the ground by the 3rd ID. Of course we all know how the Battle of the Bulge turned out. The Germans were pushed back and the war would end in a few months. This historic battle was depicted in the Epic "Band of Brothers" (episode 6) if you saw that.
The walk has 4 different lengths, 6k, 12k, 20k and 40k that take you through the various battle sights and the town. We, of course, walked the short route, since Indy is only 6, but even the short route was amazing. Don't take my word for it though. Look at these photos:

Reenactors.

Field surrounding Bastogne.


Reenactors.
Indy with a reenactor.


Reenactors in the trenches.




Reenactors around a pot bellied stove.


Indy with a reeactor at McAuliff Square.

Army tents and hospital around the Church in Bastogne.




View from the top of the memorial.




It was so cold. When we started around 9am it was 25 degrees. When we ended our 6k around noon, it was 21 degrees. It was much colder the year the battle took place. We were so grateful to find a warm restaurant to grab a quick bite and something to drink. The soldiers who fought the battle did not have the same luxury. Many died of cold. They fought their way across the fields and through the surrounding forests for days on end. They fought not only the enemy, but the snow and bitter cold. They fought Christmas Day 1944. They fought New Year's Day 1945. These brave men helped turn the tide of the war. Hitler was never able to make such an assault again. If they had not endured what they did and fought as bravely as they did, our world could be a vastly different place today.
Most of the re-enactors out there were not American. They are almost entirely of European descent. The people of Bastogne have not forgotten what was sacrificed on their fields and in their woods 64 years ago. There were American flags proudly waving in the cold and welcoming smiles on every face. Every half hour (on the hour and the half), the Church bells in town tolled the first part of our national anthem "Oh say can you see?" It was touching. The monument built there was dedicated not long after the war ended. They have been doing the historical walk for 31 years. Every year they hold a parade and lay a wreath in honor of the Americans. These people have a long memory. They are, to this day, appreciative. As we celebrate this holiday season, we should remember to be grateful to those who have some before and sacrificed that we may enjoy today.