The slow death

For those associate with the military, force transformation (the shutting down and combining of base) is no surprise as TPTB been talking about it for YEARS. We've known they were happening for a long time, but until now, we've never experienced it. Mannheim, which is about 20 minutes away from us, and was an important industrial center for the Nazis was reached by the Allied ground advance (in this case the US 44th Infantry Division) into Germany in late March 1945, has officially closed its doors. There are still a few units and families there, but not for long. Heidelberg is next and it's like watching something slowly die as more and more services and housing areas are shut down.  Let's go back to the beginning for a short history lesson of this amazing place.

As part of the Nazi military buildup, the German 110th Infantry Regiment was activated in May 1936 and stationed in Heidelberg. The existing Grenadier-Kaserne (now Patton Barracks) was not large enough for the regiment. Accordingly, a new installation was built in 1937 on what was then farmland on the southern outskirts of Heidelberg near the suburb of Rohrbach.
The first Allied troops entered Heidelberg on the morning of Good Friday, March 30th, 1945, and the city surrendered without a fight. The Wehrmacht had left Heidelberg a day earlier but not before blowing up the bridges crossing the River Neckar, which in Heidelberg meant blowing up the old bridge.
The U.S. units that initially occupied Großdeutschland-Kaserne are not known, but by V-E Day, 8 May 1945, the headquarters of the U.S. 6th Army Group occupied the Kaserne.  The Kaserne was formally renamed Campbell Barracks on August 23, 1948 in memory of Staff Sergeant Charles L. Campbell, 14th Infantry Regiment, 71st Infantry Division, who was awarded the Distinguished Service Cross posthumously for extraordinary heroism. On March 28, 1945, two days before the surrender of Heidelberg, Staff Sergeant Campbell led a patrol across the Rhine River near Mannheim and was killed while covering the withdrawal of his patrol as it returned to the west bank with valuable information.

Here is a photos circa 1945 when the Americans took over the Kaserne:

Since that photo was taken, Campbell Barracks has grown by leaps and bounds.  The surrounding farmland no longer exists and is now covered with buildings.  Circa 1963:

 These photos were taken just a few years ago (and it don't even show the whole thing).  Look at the difference from the 1945 photo:

The areas across the street from the main gate (at the bottom of the photo) are mostly family housing (called Mark Twain Village), as are the few buildings you can see off to the top right.  This is the section I live in, though my building isn't in this photo.  There are also buildings not shown just off the left of this photo that were at one time also family housing.  Most of them are closed and have been turned over to the Germans.  They have been empty for years (they shut them down around 2006/7) and no one knows what the Germans will do with them.

This is a recent aerial view looking from the rear.  You can see all the buildings across from the main gate.  The smaller buildings are German houses.  The building I live in is just barely visible to the far left about 1/4 of the way from the top.

As of the end of 2012, all of Mark Twain Village, which has 708 apartments and houses about 2000 soldiers and family members, will be shut down.  All remaining families will be housed on Patrick Henry Village, which is about 3 miles away (and a complete ghetto, IMO).  Most of the building shown at the top of the last photo (across the street from the main gate) are completely empty with only 1 or 2 families left per building.  My own stairwell (there are 2 stairwell per building) is mostly empty.

By the end of 2015, the US Army Europe Headquarters, which has been based out of Campbell Barracks since 1952, will officially move to Wiesbaden, Patton Barracks, Nachrichten Kasern (where the hospital is), and Tompkins Barracks will also shut down and US Army Heidelberg as we know it will no longer exist.  Campbell Barracks has been a NATO base since 1993 and will continue to be so after the HQ pulls out.  There will still be a small contingent of Americans here for NATO.

Carved in the stone of the gates that flank the main entry of Campbell Barracks, there are 2 German eagles (one on each side).  Below these two eagles are 2 of only a handful of swastikas still remaining in Germany.  They are covered by the US 7th Army emblem, but if you look at them closely from the sides, you can still see the circle that goes around the swastikas.   I have no idea why they didn't chip them off like most of the swastikas in Germany, but it's interesting to know they're still there.  I tried to find a photo of them (with the emblems of course), but couldn't.  I'd go take a photo, but having a camera around the post is just asking for the MP's to pay you a visit. 

We've been to Heidelberg 3 times now and have incredibly fond memories of it. Both our boys were born here and it makes me sad to know that while we might visit it, we'll never again live in this amazing place.

Linking to: 

Junkin' German style and other stuff

Saturday was a (rare) beautiful day here in Heidelberg. It was really cold, but nice and sunny and just perfect for getting out of the house. There was a flea market in the Messeplatz and M and I decided to go. Indy stayed with our neighbor and played with their kids. We ran away laughing like 2 school kids. Not that we don't love Indy to pieces, we do, but it's so rare to get to spend some time on a Saturday without him.

There were a ton of stalls set up, but come late spring/summer this place will be overflowingwith vendors and the only pavement visible will be the small paths for people to walk.


This was by FAR the coolest booth there. He had WWII artifacts. You don't see a whole lot of war stuff over here, because...I'm not sure. Maybe they would really like to put it behind them. Of course as Americans we find it crazy fascinating. His booth was surrounded by Americans.


I wonder what happened to the owner of these boots. He had about 15 pair. See the canisters? Those are meal ration cans.



Look closely at this photo. See all the little white bits of paper? Know what they're covering? Guess. Swastikas. Isn't that odd?



These knives were from the Hitler Youth. Look at the medal. Swastika covered.


Propaganda comic books.


Okay, enough with the war stuff. Let's go look at some pretties.


She was 200 Euro. I don't know what I'd do with her, but she was gorgeous and I wanted to buy her. Not for 200 Euro though.


Any idea what these are? Antique Christmas Tree Stands! Aren't they cool? Also, crazy heavy!


I think Eddie Ross would be in heaven.


After the flea market, we came home and got Indy and went downtown. We passed this neat little car (?) on the way.


Indy being cool on the Strassenbahn (street car).


This guy cracked me up. He was so serious. He looked like he belonged at the Black Panther Party on Forrest Gump.


We ate lunch at Gino's but there were no available tables, so we sat at the bar. Indy thought this was awesome. This was the bartender/server. He was funny and more than a wee bit tipsy. He had 3 glasses of Prosecco while we were there.

Me and Indy.


M.

M had a Gyro (yuck) and Indy HAD to have a bite. He said it was delicious.

Indy and I had pizzas. His was just margherita (cheese and sauce) and mine had artichokes. Holy moly was it good! Artichokes have now replaced corn as my favorite pizza topping. Just thinking about it makes me hungry.

After lunch we wandered around the Hauptstrasse (high street) to work off some of that yummy food. There was a small market set up along the road. It's the same one I took photos of in the fall. This is the spring version.



Look how cute!


After walking around and going in and out of various shops for an hour, we grabbed a gelato (YUM!) and hopped back on the stras to come home. It was a fun day, even though it was FREEZING.

Welcome to Heidelberg

Subtitle: I'm completely lazy. I've been planning this post for weeks, but I've just not had the inclination time to actually post it. Sorry! About 2 weeks ago we went downtown and I took a bucket load of photos. Seriously, I took more than 400. I won't post them ALL here because I think it might jam blogger up beyond redemption. This is major on photos though, so make sure your coffee cup is full and sit back as we tour this beautiful city.

This is one of my favorite things about Europe. Open air markets. It is so nice to be able to buy fruit, veg, cheeses or breads that are fresh and local. Man, I'm hungry just thinking about it.

Oh, look! Fresh roasted chestnuts? Smells like the holidays!

Looking towards the other side of the river:


I love this building! Look at that ivy!
The church. Hey, there's M down in the left corner. Doesn't he look cute? And maybe slightly bored. I was stopping about every 3 feet to take photos. Not so much fun for him.

We're walking towards the castle.

This sign gives you the different ways to get to the castle (schloss in German). You can take the 315 steps (10 minutes my arse) or the incline, which is 282 feet up (again, 10 minutes? I don't think so).

We opted for the incline. It's so steep! Indy ran up part of it, but had to stop for a rest. See how far back Mommy and Daddy were?

Into the castle. I should tell you that the Heidelberg castle is actually mostly a ruin. It was burned in the 1600's (IIRC) and during the Thirty Years War, parts were rebuilt, it was abandoned by the Electorate (like a Prince), townspeople quarried it for construction materials, it was repaired, lightening struck, it was again abandoned, it was repaired, lightening struck again, and it was kind of left alone after that, and mostly used for tourism. Some of the towers and lower structures are in great shape. The Church and great hall are gorgeous. I had a friend get married in the castle about 10 years ago and it was the most stunning wedding and reception I've ever been to. But, I digress. Here we go.

A gorgeous view of the city. See the Church? That's the one I showed you earlier with M in the pic. We walked a long way.
It's like walking through a fairy tale.

Oh, this is the big vat. Yes, it's a real vat, and yes they really used to keep wine in it. I don't think I would have wanted to drink it. Also, they really need to dust it. Ick.

Some random sculpture. I'm sure it's symbolic and had I grown up with an education in the Renaissance I'm sure I'd know who this is and why he's sculpted on the side of the castle. But I didn't and I don't, so I just think he's pretty. Nice abs. Wonder what he's hiding behind that cloth?

My boys looking over the bridge at one of the lower parts of the castle that are completely destroyed.

See? Destroyed. Beautiful though.

Indy found the "biggest leaf in the entire world." Take him to a castle, he looks at the leaves. Good times.

This is the Elizabeth gate. It was built as a gift for Elizabeth Stuart (daughter of England's James I) from her husband Prince Electorate Fredric V. The whole area was originally a gunpark, but he turned it into a pleasure garden for her. There was at one time a wall here, but now only the gate remains. FYI, Elisabeth and Frederic were the great-great grandparents of England's George III. You know him right? We had that whole revolutionary war thing against him and his unfair taxes (especially on our tea) and whatnot.

The powder turret was split by an explosion. Mark Twain described it in his book A Tramp Abroad. Here is a lovely excerpt.:

A ruin must be rightly situated, to be effective. This one could not have been better placed. It stands upon a commanding elevation, it is buried in green woods, there is no level ground about it, but, on the contrary, there are wooded terraces upon terraces, and one looks down through shining leaves into profound chasms and abysses where twilight reigns and the sun cannot intrude. Nature knows how to garnish a ruin to get the best effect. One of these old towers is split down the middle, and one half has tumbled aside. It tumbled in such a way as to establish itself in a picturesque attitude. Then all it lacked was a fitting drapery, and Nature has furnished that; she has robed the rugged mass in flowers and verdure, and made it a charm to the eye. The standing half exposes its arched and cavernous rooms to you, like open, toothless mouths; there, too, the vines and flowers have done their work of grace. The rear portion of the tower has not been neglected, either, but is clothed with a clinging garment of polished ivy which hides the wounds and stains of time. Even the top is not left bare, but is crowned with a flourishing group of trees & shrubs. Misfortune has done for this old tower what it has done for the human character sometimes−improved it.

Boy, that Mark knew how to write didn't he?

This is a view of the castle and hillside from one of the upper garden terraces. Notice the sheep grazing? How idyllic is this?

Okay, this is hard to see, but if you zoom in, you can see a guy down at the bottom. See him? Go ahead, have a peek and come back. I'll wait.....Did you see him? Know what he's doing? He's relieving himself! It's legal to urinate pretty much anywhere in Germany as long as your back is to the street. Nice for guys. For women...not so much. I know I shouldn't have taken this photo, but I just couldn't help myself.

The terrace. The above picture was taken from the top.

Here's the upper terrace from a lower terrace.

The path in front of the upper terrace.

As we made our way back down from the castle night fell and the performers came out. It was a Friday evening and they were out in full force. Most of them were musicians, but this guy was unique. He twirled fire! He threw it up in the air! He blew fire! He swallowed fire! Indy was in awe.

I couldn't resist taking some photos of this stall. Aren't these arrangements adorable? Wouldn't they look lovely on your Thanksgiving table?

Let's look a little closer. How cute would these little pumpkins or gourds be as place card holders? And guests could take them home after dinner. Adorable!

We walked a total of 7.5 miles that day. We took a bus downtown, but from the bus stop up to the castle and back was 7.5 miles (my cell has a pedometer on it). Indy walked every step of it. He slept like hard that night. M and I did too.

So ends our little tour. There's so much more to see though. Stay tuned!